Part 9 - Exhaustion

Summer 2009

I know that it takes a lot of physical effort to paddle thru the inside, get out past many breakers to sit and have the chance to pick a wave to go for, but there's this other thing, exhaustion.

We have to:
1. Move the board around a lot, rack them up, take em down, carry them around, walk a while in the sand to the spot and
2. Work our way thru the shore break, then
3. Paddle out butts off thru the breakers and
4. Dive thru the bigger ones, more paddling and
5. Then get out past them and
6. Paddle inward to catch them, but then
7. Miss a few and then work our way back out of the surf zone and the breakers to get back out to set up for next set and repeat a bunch of times but also
8. Make sure there is enough reserve energy to work our way back in if taken by rip currents out, or if taken a lot farther out by wind or current, basically, enough energy left for survival paddling to get back in...and also be able to swim a long way if separated from board, even more survival energy required in that case.

Well, 1 through 8 has mostly paddling.  Forget about catching waves, or standing, we're talking here about paddling most of the time or constantly.

So I thought about this and realized I need to condition to be able to have about 50 times more paddling endurance than I had at that time.

Coming soon, a year later and I'm back in the ocean.