Really nice weather this morning, summer clear, dry, north wind. Great parking, brought camera this time.
Spent 20 minutes caught inside. I was in thee wrong place to get out. I also was spending too much time walking out instead of paddling. I got hit and ducked every 5 seconds, I'm beat.
But outside was insane. People were just chillin out there watching the swell. It was like nothing I've ever seen. If I didn't have as much experience as I just very recently got, I would have been scared out of my mind. But after watching a lot of waves and being in many of them recently, I knew where to be and where was safe. I have no idea how to measure them, but they were like houses going by. I couldn't see any horizon in the trough, and then I could see all the way down to Lido and over the boardwalk at the peak.
I just looked at the buoy data but it's only once per hour so those crazy few swells weren't registered,I think, because they had to be bigger than 5 feet. Then again, maybe from the trough to the peak is not part of that measurement.
I chilled there for a bit, got the sand out of the gloves, it was a blender and to have sand in the fingers of the web gloves is a lot of turbulence. Floated on my back, drifted.
Did you ever get out there and be so blown away that you start talking to yourself because of being so awed?
I do, I smile, and swear a lot and sound stoked.
After 3 hours, it got really heavily clouded and overcast and even cool. People were bundling up, I'm all sore anyway and beat and chilled for the first time this season, so I loaded up the car and took some more pictures.
As far as rides, those huge monsters that I went for were closeouts and you had to pick them really carefully for any face rather than all whitewater. But on the way in, I caught so many foamies, it reinforced to me how powerful I found them when trying to get out past them earlier. I played for a lot more on the inside near a smaller section where there was no lineup. Really easy riding those surprisingly. But still very hard to get back out at all. I noticed later when I was taking pics, that everyone was having that problem.
Many surfers there today, I saw at least 50. Great morning.
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| Clear Start |
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| Lincoln still clear |
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| Getting cloudy |
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And then the massive front passed us by and now it's hot again. I'm sure it's nice down there again. More tomorrow. :-)
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