Awesome Beginner Waves Today

I hadn't seen that kind of sand bar at LB until today.  Water depth was waist high, then I climbed up a steep ramp to a wide sand bar that was knee high.  Then just past it was 5 feet high and I was able to walk out a little more right where there were breakers.

Some I caught just jumping off the bottom, others jumping onto my board and paddling just a bit.  It was a really great spot and perfect little waves.

I think I conquered some fear of the 4 foot wave, over the surface, starting to break just behind me and getting ready for that drop.

There were a few different situations at that point.  I've never come down from the peak until today.  On a steeper wave face like these today, being forward on the board is not good.  I am used to mushy, low slope waves that require me to be very far forward so I can enhance gravity going forward down a mild incline.  However, when the wave is a real breaker with a curl, being forward sinks the front of my board down 3 feet.  So I started moving back and these waves took me even without me paddling up to their speed.

I got smacked hard in the back once by the lip coming down hard, ouch.  I got enveloped by the whitewater on a couple.  I think I hit one perfectly and knee boarded, which is progress.

There are a lot of things going on that I have to change and figure out.  I have so many images in my mind of so many situations and board positioning that I am mentally sorting thru.  I can't even list them all, not even sure how to describe them.

At the first spot I easily took 100 body slams by waves from my hips to my head.  I have a headache.  Every 5 seconds was another foamy that just knocked really hard into me.  The outside wasn't even good because those were mostly closeouts and massive sections, there was one really good guy who took extremely short rides on them.  That's why there were "poor" conditions today, but good for beginners.

And luckily, no 2 hour severe pain episode.  I took 4 days off.

I think my eye whites are sunburned.  This may be the first time, anyone ever have that?