Monday, September 20, 2010

Igor Saturday Boogie Boarding and Sunday Soft Top

Saturday
At LB I thought I could get out in the middle of the jetties but it took forever.  Even with the swim fins and small boogie board, it was just as hard as with the surfboard.

My legs weren't propelling me as I remember from a long time ago, or it didn't seem that way in the heavy surf.

Then I had a new problem, severe pain in my arms.  I had to sit on the beach and do yoga for an hour for any relief.  I've never felt that before, it was very distressing.

Sunday
I returned with the soft top surfboard thinking I had enough shoulder rest.  I made it outside really smoothly with careful timing next to the jetty.  Saw a guy who recognized me from Friday.  There were closeouts of good sized waves.  I had spotted an area while on shore that looked like a good left and where the larger breaker started a sweep after the larger part closed out.  That's where I wanted to be but it was really hard to get there because of the strong westward current.  People getting out would go ten feet out and 20 feet west.

Then I started feeling the same pain from the day before.  I took a fast and bumpy foamy ride all the way in and suffered for 2 hours in severe pain.  I did yoga and tai chi and finally the pain decreased but there is a little remaining.

Monday
Long Beach looks like the best since I've been observing it so far.  Worried about the pain returning, but I have to try it again.  I plan on taking the left after the breaker closes out a section in the middle.  I studied this from shore for a half hour yesterday and got stoked that I figured out the best place for me to be and it isn't where anyone else thinks is good.  They are all headed for the largest peaking area that is too challenging for my level.

Time to gear up.

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