Sunday, September 5, 2010

Conditions Day After Hurricane Earl Choppy - Yesterday, Saturday.

It was very similar to the day before Hurricane Earl, chop.  The sand bar I've come to love was still there and waves were breaking over it, but they were closeouts and not steep, huge foam, and then reformed.  The foam on the surface never cleared up and there were always 3 waves between the sand bar and the shore.  Sometimes the wave peaks were double ups.  All the shore breakers were overheads so it would take a lot of timing to get in and out without getting pounded down into the sand at the falls.  I drew it.  Looking South.












A really strong wind from the West blowing up sand.  I waited for a lull but it was pretty much constant and I would have to battle a lot inside before getting to the sand bar that was constantly crashing.  So I didn't since I was there a week ago and it was perfect, I didn't need to get into that.  I wanted to ride, not prove my endurance in the ocean with big rips.  And 2 guys were coming back when I got there and they said, "Don't do it."  I was surprised, they wiped out and said they got pulled under and into rips.

I think I would've gone for it if I didn't just have an awesome day at the same spot a week earlier.  Still a beautiful day.

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