It was hard to stand and walk forward from the broken foam wave to the next one, where I wanted to be. The amount of water is amazing, it's a foot or more higher and like a plateau over the water level in front of it. It passes by with so much force it's a fight to keep my feet on the sand. I lift my board up over them as they hit, and I can work my way right into the edge of the wave where it's curling into the face. I was in a good spot and practicing popping up on every one and making good progress each time. Caught about 20 this way.
The problem was taking the hits to the torso every 6 seconds to work my way to that perfect spot. I learned that it's not worth doing that since those hits moved my back too much as I took them all on one side. So I had to rest for 3 weeks. I didn't miss much, we've had a 3 week lull here. Doing this 20 times means I took about 20 hits getting back out there each time, 400 torso hits is too many.
It was a lot of fun and that's why I couldn't stop, but I paid for it.
|Green is where I was working towards but Red arrow was a massive force|