Log of how I got into surfing (Part n) and current conditions, progress, gear, pictures, video, rides, inspiration, links to other great surf stuff, and my never ending surfing adventure.
Friday, October 8, 2010
I Love Wave Rain
I don't take the wave, it is tall, the surface starts to rip apart under me as it flies by and large drops become airborne and the offshore wind takes them over me and cools me down. I love it!
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