Powerful Water and Back Strain

Surf was breaking in shallow water and looking decent for practice just a few yards out from where I was still able to stand.  So to give my arms a break, I waded into them and caught them as I  jumped up or paddled for a second after jumping on the board.  It was a change from the bigger swell that I've been in where they out 10 or 20 more yards.

It was hard to stand and walk forward from the broken foam wave to the next one, where I wanted to be.  The amount of water is amazing, it's a foot or more higher and like a plateau over the water level in front of it.  It passes by with so much force it's a fight to keep my feet on the sand.  I lift my board up over them as they hit, and I can work my way right into the edge of the wave where it's curling into the face.  I was in a good spot and practicing popping up on every one and making good progress each time.  Caught about 20 this way.

The problem was taking the hits to the torso every 6 seconds to work my way to that perfect spot.  I learned that it's not worth doing that since those hits moved my back too much as I took them all on one side.  So I had to rest for 3 weeks.  I didn't miss much, we've had a 3 week lull here.  Doing this 20 times means I took about 20 hits getting back out there each time, 400 torso hits is too many.

It was a lot of fun and that's why I couldn't stop, but I paid for it.

Green is where I was working towards but Red arrow was a massive force